[Over drinks, we took in the view of lush foothills and farm terraces. Across the road was a new looking restaurant with an Anglicised name and no terrace outside. As elsewhere across Italy, Bergamo has seen the opening of modish,] new Italian ... They tend to be a ridiculous combination of some Michelin-led story and the fact that, say, footballers dine there. They are targeting the nouveau riche and eating in these places tends to be like eating in a chemist's shop. Let the stars eat bad food alone.

Antonio Carluccio