For a surfer, it's never-ending. There's always some wave you want to surf.

I haven't surfed since Japan—not even one wave.

It's a magical start. It kind of gives me a nice little cushion there. If I just surf loose and get another result or two, then everything's lined up real good for the start of the year.

A wave isn't like a skate ramp or mountain; everything's moving around and you have to time how to move along with it. That's easier with a slow wave.

Big waves are a whole different ball game. You're riding a wave with an immense amount of speed and power, generally over 10 meters. On the face of the wave, obviously life and death thoughts start to happen.

Fatherhood isn't always a planned thing, but when it happens you just do it. It's very natural and in that sense it's not really difficult.