Change is an easy panacea. It takes character to stay in one place and be happy there.

I caught a wave that was like one of the best waves I've ever caught in my life. It was perfect, and I just had it beautifully like the whole way.

It was after he bit me that, and was kind of, the water had calm down a little bit, that I was really like screaming my head off.

I was just getting my groove on.

I was totally terrified and there was nothing I could do. It was my worst fear and it's so bizarre to have your worst fear suddenly come true.

Instead of doing what was meant to be done with it ... he used the money as if it was his own,